Kakheti is the heart of Georgian wine, east of Tbilisi beneath the Greater Caucasus. What sets it apart is not only the grapes but the way the wine is made: in qvevri, large clay vessels buried in the ground.
What a qvevri is
A qvevri is an egg-shaped clay vessel set into the cellar floor. Grapes (and, for traditional white wines, their skins) are fermented in it and the wine ages there. The method is on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage, and it is still how many Kakheti families make wine. Rezo’s winery visits are to family cellars where this is a living practice rather than a display.
The harvest
The grape harvest is called rtveli and usually falls in September to October. It is a wonderful time to be in Kakheti and also one of the busiest in Georgia, so book early. Outside harvest, cellars are quieter and lunches longer. See the seasons guide.
What a good winery day looks like
Rezo’s approach to a Kakheti day:
- A morning at the Tsinandali estate and garden.
- A family qvevri winery, chosen to suit your group, followed by a long lunch with the winemaker.
- A gentle drive on to Sighnaghi for the town walls at sunset.
Fewer, longer stops mean you taste properly and are not driving after a circuit of cellars. The driver handles the roads.
Where this fits in a trip
Kakheti is about 85 km and two hours from Tbilisi over the Gombori pass. Most travellers give it two nights; read the Kakheti destination page for how it connects to Tusheti and the rest of the country.