The road north from Tbilisi climbs the Georgian Military Highway into the High Caucasus, and the town of Stepantsminda sits at the end of it, directly beneath Mount Kazbek. For a first trip to the mountains it is the most direct way in.
The drive north
The highway is the attraction as much as the destination. Typical stops are:
- Mtskheta, about 30 minutes out, for Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (see Tbilisi).
- Ananuri, a fortress complex on the reservoir about an hour further.
- Gudauri, the ski area, and viewpoints on the pass before the descent to Stepantsminda.
In total that is about three hours of driving, which Rezo turns into a day of roughly 3 h 15 m behind the wheel with time to stop. Take the day slowly and arrive in the afternoon for an evening walk.
Gergeti Trinity Church
The church stands on a ridge above the town with Mount Kazbek behind it. It can be reached by 4×4 or on foot, and Rezo decides which on the day depending on weather. Plan the visit for the morning, when the mountain is most often clear.
A second day: Juta and the Chaukhi massif
A mountain road leads from Stepantsminda to Juta village, about 45 minutes away, with an easy walk beneath the Chaukhi massif. It is quieter than the main sights, which is why a third night in Kazbegi tends to be the one travellers remember. Walks are adapted to the group.
When to go
Summer is the best time for high mountains and walking. In winter the area is a ski region and the road can be affected by snow, which is why Rezo builds slack into every Kazbegi leg. See the month-by-month guide and the mountain roads guide.
Combine Kazbegi with Kakheti for a six-day first look, or with the west for the ten-day Mountains, wine and a little sea route.